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Traditional craft of Mallorca

Traditional jewelry and Mallorcan buttons

At a glance

Gold and silver pieces of the traditional dress: the buttoned (row of buttons on sleeves and golla), chains, female medallions (rostrillo, joia de pit) and…

Crafts
Traditional craft of Mallorca
Artisans in the register
86 · Palma, Manacor, Sóller, Capdepera, Inca
Words
argenter, arracada, botonada, botó, cadena, cisellat

What it is and technique

Gold and silver pieces of the traditional dress: the buttoned (row of buttons on sleeves and golla), chains, female medallions (rostrillo, joia de pit) and crosses. Techniques: casting, embossing, granulating and filigree. I have not found sources on active Mallorcan filigree: it is doubtful that it is practiced on the island today.

Short story

One of the most characteristic crafts of Mallorca since the Middle Ages; sign of prestige. Key studies: Elvira González Gozalo and Magdalena Riera (history of Balearic jewelry); BSAL 2012 article that classifies buttons according to the Joyas Forteza (Palma) collection, with advice from argenter Berto Forteza Bonnín.

Chronology:

  • Middle Ages: silversmiths (argenters) organized in Palma; Calle de l'Argenteria retains the name of the trade.
  • 17th-19th centuries: the gold and silver buttons are fixed on the pagea dress and the male gipó (to verify exact dates per piece).
  • 20th century: traditional jewelry goes from daily use to dance and party clothing.
  • 1926: the Segura workshop opens in Sa Pobla.
  • 2012: BSAL classifies the buttons of the Forteza collection.
  • 2018: new BSAL article on Balearic jewelry.
  • Fashion design: Isabel Guarch presents the “Botonada” collection inspired by the Mallorcan button (please verify year).

Where and who today

  • Joieria Fill by Jaume Segura — Sa Pobla, workshop since 1926, specializing in traditional Mallorcan jewelry. joieria-jaume-segura
  • Forteza Jewelry — Palma (button collection). joies-forteza
  • La Palmesana (Palma) and Carmen Oropesa (Majorcan jewelry + textile; the founder died in 2025, the workshop continues).

State

I live linked to dance and party clothing; filigree, doubtful.

Contemporary Updates

Carmen Oropesa combines jewelry with language stealing. Isabel Guarch reinterprets the button-down in fashion. Pending: young jewelers.

Process step by step

Golden or silver button (technical summary):

1. Casting (mold or lost wax) or stamping of two half spheres.

2. Welded the halves and the sewing ring.

3. Decoration: embossed, chiseled, granulated (welded beads) or filigree.

4. Filigree: twisted silver or gold thread, flattened and soldered to form a pattern on a frame of thicker thread.

5. Gilding, polishing and button mounting.

  • Tools: blowtorch, crucible, dies (for drawing wire), pliers, tweezers, chisels.

Forms and objects

  • Buttoned: row of buttons on the gipó and jac sleeves.
  • Mànega and gonella buttons.
  • Gold chains.
  • Rostrillo / pit jewelry: medallion or chest pendant (to verify exact terminology by area).
  • Creus and arracades (slopes).
  • Traditional engagement rings.

Vocabulary

  • argenter: silversmith.
  • joier: jeweler.
  • botó: button.
  • botonada: series of buttons on the dress.
  • gipó: doublet.
  • filigrana: drawing with openwork metallic thread.
  • granulat: decoration of balls.
  • repussat: embossed.
  • cisellat: chiseled.
  • arracada: earring.
  • cadena: link necklace.
  • trefilar: stretching metallic thread through the spinneret.

Geography

  • Palma: Argenteria street and jewelry stores in the center (Forteza, La Palmesana).
  • Sa Pobla: Segura workshop (since 1926).
  • Gold and silver: imported; The local value is in the form and the craft.

Xifres

  • Segura Workshop: 1926.
  • Studies: BSAL 2012 (Forteza buttons), BSAL 2018.
  • Filigree today: I have not found any workshop that makes it on the island. The filigree buttons sold could be from outside (please verify).
  • No verified prices.

Why is it design

  • Module: the button is a repeatable piece that builds a series.
  • Portable value: family savings sewn to the dress.
  • Social code: number and material of buttons say rank and occasion.
  • Vivid reinterpretation: Isabel Guarch's "Botonada" collection brings the button into fashion.

For the project

  • Possible piece: the Mallorcan botó as a modular system (BSAL typology) taken to contemporary jewelry or hardware.
  • Contact: Joieria Fill de Jaume Segura (Sa Pobla); Elvira González (historian).
  • Background question: the button as an ornament that is also a reserve of value and social code.

Frequently asked questions

What is Traditional jewelry and Mallorcan buttons?

Gold and silver pieces of the traditional dress: the buttoned (row of buttons on sleeves and golla), chains, female medallions (rostrillo, joia de pit) and…

Who practises Traditional jewelry and Mallorcan buttons in Mallorca today?

The Balearic Islands Crafts Register lists 86 artisans linked to this craft, in Palma, Manacor, Sóller, Capdepera, Inca.

What are the traditional words for Traditional jewelry and Mallorcan buttons?

Some words: argenter, arracada, botonada, botó, cadena, cisellat, filigrana, gipó.

Sources

Working text from the Disseny Indígena knowledge base, machine-translated from Spanish.

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